Jacket & Fleeces Editorial AW20
As we start to transition into the colder months, the need for versatile, layerable outerwear and everyday pieces is becoming greater. Rich autumnal and earth-inspired colours stand at the forefront of new AW20 collections which offer a combination of practicality, style and comfort across oversized and lightly tailored silhouettes. With working from home now commonplace to a larger majority of the population for the foreseeable future, you may have begun to prioritise comfort in your daily knitwear and jacket picks and you will be pleased to know that what the latest releases offer is a balance between relaxed finishes that don’t lack personality or sophistication. Textural fleece remains a favourite for retro inspired styling from brands such as Patagonia and Universal Works whilst multiple pockets and utility style detailing adds further character against traditional workwear jacket designs from Vetra. Strong influences from outdoor styles are still popular but in comparison to other seasons have matured slightly with a greater focus on materials and finish, like the waterproof coats from Norse Projects who have worked with fabric specialists GORE-TEX to ensure a high level of weather protection. Of course sustainability continues to be discussed and implemented in both material choices and high quality construction methods for a naturally long-lasting finish as well as through the subdued base colour tones of many styles that reflect elements from the earth and nature.
An easy favourite for day to day comfort that is a step up from a casual hoodie or sweatshirt, a textural cardigan is a must-have for the season and should be worn in place of a jacket during crisp autumnal days. Although fairly lightweight, the selected acrylic fleece on the Universal Works Lancaster Mountain Fleece Jacket is the perfect density for wearing below a waterproof jacket for extra warmth and the fold-down collar neckline has a neat finish that will look smart with a button through shirt, or even casual t-shirt. Taking inspiration from more traditional knitted styles, the Universal Works Reverse Isle Loose Cardigan is made from a wool blend and is customised with a striped, geometric design with chocolate tone trims that make for a go-to winter ready knitwear design that wouldn’t look out of place in alpine settings.
Carrying the same plush allure, hiking inspired fleeces have remained popular through new season collections from brands such as Patagonia and Gramicci, both of which are well known for their focus on practicality and thorough testing in the mountains. Function takes over from style from either brand who have focused on pocket placement and neckline detailing as opposed to statement patterns or colour tones. Constructed with attractive curved front pockets, a contrasting nylon chest compartment and snap button neck placket, the Gramicci Boa Fleece Pullover Shirt features a small, contrasting chest pocket and an over-extended neckline for a classic look that has been designed to be worn alone when active or as a mid layer for additional warmth. Similarly, the Gramicci Boa Fleece Jacket also features a raised collar neckline for wind chill protection but has a full length zip through front so you can select your desired level of ventilation, as well as nylon inserts on either sleeve for greater protection from abrasions during rock climbing excursions, as the brands heritage would suggest.
Demonstrating how streetwear, tailoring and workwear continues to mingle each season, workshop style jackets have retained their appeal through the warmer months and now as we head into autumn, remain a sensible choice for just about any occasion. Robust enough to stand up to wind chill but not bulky enough to be unsuitable worn under a waterproof jacket, or even a fleece, workwear jackets are a ‘for-life’ design which in the right colour and fabric stand the test of time just as well as a breton t-shirt or well-tailored trouser. Having been founded in Paris during the 1920’s, Vetra know a thing or two when it comes to designing traditional workwear pieces and have continued to build upon their heritage during modern day releases. Versatile colourways such as navy, khaki, bottle green and black across the Vetra No.4 Workwear Jacket and smooth Vetra French Moleskin Jacket allow for easy pairing with t-shirts and cotton sweatshirts for a relaxed look or a button through shirt for more formal situations. As seen on the 5C Short Twill Workwear Jacket, the variety of pockets coincides with AW20 trends and means you can carry essential items whether you are exploring the city or have DIY tasks around the home.
As for insulation, we look to Norse Projects for a blend of refined styling and performance with their Abisko Light Down Jacket and Willum Down Jacket designs which feature different widths of stitched baffling so you can choose between how much warmth is provided and how it sits around the body - for more condensed insulation, we’d suggest the Abisko whilst the Willum features a shape-retaining hemline and adjustable details so you can really lock yourself in from wind chill. As leading designs introduced for the season, both are complete with hoods so you need not have to choose between protection from light downpours or warmth.
However, when it does come to more challenging weather conditions, Norse Projects has also provided us with a range of GORE-TEX focused designs that exhibit the Scandinavian brand’s ability to combine refined styling with practicality across pieces that have been purposely created to suit active, conscious lifestyles. Often considered only suitable for outdoor focused designs, Norse Projects’ partnership with GORE-TEX shows the transition many specialist textile companies have made into working with contemporary brands for modern styling, resulting in the fashion and outdoor industry becoming progressively more merged in recent years. The Fyn Down 2.0 Gore Tex Jacket and Alvar Infinium Gore Tex Pants offer a solution to often unfashionable waterproof hiking designs and are enhanced by the brands eye for sophisticated, streamlined finishes, so no matter the weather you’ll be protected from the elements in style. A great packable accessory if you’re not in need of full body protection but want to ensure you are prepared for unexpected downpours, the Norse Projects Gore Tex Sports Cap and Gore Tex Bucket Hat both utilise the same water repellent fabrics as the jacket and pants and are complete with simplistic branding that acts as a confirmation of quality and authenticity.
On a similar note, Topo Designs have presented a selection of waterproof coats constructed from 2-way mechanical stretch fabrics sourced from select mills that follow strict manufacturing guidelines to demonstrate a dedication to sustainability and quality. Their Global Jacket is offered in low-key olive and black colourways, complete with waterproof tape seamed zips whilst a brighter Subalpine Jacket is sure to catch the eye of anyone wanting to make a statement when exploring the great outdoors. Whichever aesthetic you prefer when it comes to waterproof protection, to ensure lightweight breathability look to unlined designs that have been treated with a protective coating.
If you have been following trends from the last few seasons you will have sensed an underlying feeling of freshness making its way across styling and selected materials. Not only a reflection of a transition into smarter pieces gaining appeal in comparison to the ever-popular sportswear inspired designs that have taken the lead in recent years, but during a time of vast change, the use of materials and versatile colourways across AW20 designs results in a comforting, familiar aesthetic with modern touches across day to day pieces that will see you through seasons to come.
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